The following is an article written by Mark Anderson.
Mark participated in our Libya & Tunisia Tour March 2007.

It's a raining Thursday morning. I'm outside packing my bike, a German friend of mine comes out and he looks at me like I might be a little bit crazy. He asks me where I am riding in this weather. "Africa" I replied. So now he thinks I am a lot crazy, "by bike?" He asks, "yes, Africa by bike" "where about" he says with a look of bewilderment on his face, "Tunisia and Libya" I reply.
"Libya!!!!!!?!". At this point he made his excuses and left, shaking his head.

So I set off to the rendezvous with the group in France, as I was riding past Kaiserslauten in Germany my bike thermometer was reading minus 7 and snow was falling heavily. "What am I doing?!!!" It took 40 minutes in the shower at the hotel that evening before I could feel my fingers again. Later that evening we all went for a nice meal in a restaurant close by and started to get to know each other.

Two days later and its Squirrel's (Brigitte's) birthday, we are all at the ferry port in Marseille looking at the world's most overloaded car, wondering why people would be emigrating out of Europe.

The ferry was very tidy and the bike hold-downs where the best I have ever seen. The day on board the ferry passed uneventful, apart from the form filling.

Next day we arrive Tunisia. Ahh! The joy that was customs. The organised mayhem.The booking in of navigation systems. The waiting. Getting local insurance. Then off we go. John's directions seemed a bit vague, "keep on main road and we all meet at coliseum - You can't miss it" And he was right. About 10 miles away I saw a large structure on the skyline that just got bigger and bigger.
We had a 40 minute stop and look around the coliseum which really took the breath away.

Then it was on to the hotel in Matmata.What a hotel, what I expected an African hotel to be. After eating and the briefing most people went to bed, but Charlie, Guy, John, and I found the bar. The "entertainment" that was laid on was the funniest thing I have ever seen. I never knew a person could sing this bad. The song "lets twist again" would never be the same. As for happy birthday&&!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Next day was Libya. More customs, more mayhem, more wishing I had listened to Squirrel and packed some food from breakfast. Finally through customs and we stopped for something too eat - Doug, Charles, Charlie, and I shared a plate of what we agreed were the best chips ever.

Riding in Libya was an experience. Never has a lifesaver 'look over my shoulder' saved my life so much. Riding in the middle of the group on the road to Tripoli, I remember watching a coach overtaking Guy and Doug - and overtaking the coach was a new 5 series BMW - all this happening on a standard 2 way street. Then we hit Tripoli. Oh my god! I have ridden the arc de triumph at rush hour, London has been conquered many times, but nothing, I mean nothing compares to Tripoli. It was the most exhilarating, scary riding I have ever done. We all arrived at the hotel feeling we had achieved something, and I felt it drew us all together.

The biggest shock though was alcohol free beer cost 5 Libyan dollars, yet 25 litres of petrol cost 2 Libyan dollars. Bizarre.

Next day was Leptis Magna - Phenomenal. That's all I can say. Roman ruins on the grandest scale.

Then on too a fortified granary, again, awesome, real Libya. Then a lovely ride too the converted Italian fort. This place had character. My roommate David and I opened the door to our room and the bed stopped moving, must have been the cleaners year off. However it was the best food I ate for the entire trip.

The next day after posing for photos by the colonel's portrait, I gave David a pillion ride as he developed another puncture (he had a few). We rode in convoy through a sand storm, to a fantastic new hotel, for a two-day stopover. The service in this hotel was exemplary,

Next day was the local museum, which was ok, though charging to take photos was a bit cheeky, as not much to photo. This was followed by a quick look round a market. We then moved on to the traditional village. This was brilliant, the guide was very friendly and helpful, and the village itself was intriguing. Then it was onto the traditional meal - camel and couscous. It tasted very nice, like good stewed beef.

That night we went up into the dunes to watch the sunset, some good photos, though the sunset was not the best. The next day we learned the colonel had closed all border crossings except for one, which was the furthest from us, so we had an early start and a long day.

After punctures and border crossings we got to the hotel in Tunisia at about 1030PM, had some very welcome food then me and guy celebrated my birthday with a bottle of wine. The next couple of days included lots of lovely rides through some lovely scenery, staying in great hotels.

The last hotel was run by Cybil and Manuel who I had to threaten to let me carry my own bags, lovely hotel, and eccentric people.

Then on the ferry again, not the same one, this one was not so good.

Back in France we rode to the hotel for our last night, another great meal followed by Charlie trying to balance a wine bottle on his chin and then lie down and stand back up. He failed but I was amused.

The next morning at breakfast I said my goodbyes and rode to Germany, feeling like I had done something with my life.

I went on this tour with an open mind. I have traveled enough too know things change, the waiting around at borders and the borders closing all helped make this as memorable as it was. John and Brigitte were thoroughly professional in everything they did, filling you with confidence but also making me feel like I was not just another paying punter.

I would recommend this tour too anyone, just go with an open mind.

Mark Anderson (Germany)

Photos by John Fulton & Brigitte Lucas

Visit our Libya & Tunisia Tour Description